At Ponts Road in Knightsbridge, after I’m told exactly what my chances are of getting into the shelter by a driver who wished only to be identified, I suspect ironically, with the nickname Twiggy, I realise that these historic refuges from the smoke, horns and road rage of central London do offer at least partial access to those of us who aren’t in possession of a black cab and the infamously difficult ‘Knowledge’ test. For the uninitiated, this is the test whereby potential drivers are examined on their ability to navigate their way from one random London street to another without having to rely on apps.
A small hatch to one side of the shelter (protected as are all of the other dozen shelters in London as listed structures by English Heritage) with a tarpaulin damply billowing in a fearsome bluster, gives forth an aroma that I can describe most succinctly as ‘fried England.’
Thick rashers of bacon wallow on a grill while eggs with yolks the colour of canaries spit, bubble and hiss in a giant pan. Tea with the hue of wood varnish and soft, seeded, white bread rolls are all juggled, sliced, levered, squeezed, patted, tipped, poured and wrapped by Maria.
When she moves to one side, I’m given a quick glimpse of what lies beyond the phone box-sized kitchen where tea (£1) and egg and bacon rolls (£3.80) are doled out, complete with a sheaf of kitchen roll, to Londoners in the know who want the best, and cheapest, British comfort food in the capital.